Herring Bone Twill Weave - Strucure & Design



 

#Herringbone twill weave: 

Herring Bone Twill Weave are generated by introducing a step into the design after a certain number of ends or picks at the step, every thread changes from up to down or vice versa. If the original weave is not double-faced, this means that, at every step, a warp twill changes into a weft twill or vice versa. It also produced by the combination of Z-twill & S-twill like Zig-zag. 

Written by
Tahsina Jannat Esha
4th Batch
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)
tahsinajannatesha@gmail.com

#According to the reversal of direction, two types of Herringbone twill-
a) Horizontal Herringbone Twill
b) Vertical Herringbone Twill.

 
a)Horizontal Herringbone Twill weave: If the direction of twill the warp yarn than horizontal herringbone twill weave is produced. The repeat size of herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave. In this case the number of warp yarn in herringbone weave is double of the number of warp yarn of base twill and the number of weft yarn is same as base twill. If, the repeat size of basic regular twill is 4*4 than the repeat size of herringbone horizontal twill is 8*4.

Formula number: A/B
Repeat Unit: {2*(A+B)}*(A+B)
Example: If formula no. is 2/2, then repeat size is  {2*(2+2)}*(2+2) or 8*4.
So if,
Formula Number: 4/2, Then
Repeat Unit: 12*6


#Features: 
  • Twill direction reverse upon the warp yarn on the principle of herringbone.
  • No. of warp yarn is double to the no. of weft yarn.
  • Basic continuous twill runs along warp.
  • Broken draft is used to produce horizontal herringbone weave.
  • When uneven twill such as warp-face twill or weft-face twill is used as base twill then straight draft is used.
  • Horizontal stripe effect formed in the fabric.

#Vertical Herringbone Twill:
If the direction of twill line is change according to the herringbone principle depends on the weft yarn than vertical herringbone twill is produced. The repeat size of vertical herringbone is calculated from the regular or base twill weave like as vertical zig-zag weave. If the repeat size of basic regular twill is 5*5, then the repeat size of vertical herringbone weave is 5*10.
   

Formula Number:  A/B
Repeat Unit: (A+B)*{(A+B)*2}
Example: If formula no. is 2/2, then repeat size is (2+2)*{(2+2)*2} or 4*8.
So if,
Formula Number: 3/2, Then
Repeat Unit: 5*10

 
#Features:
  • Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn on the principle of herringbone.
  • No. of weft yarn is double to the warp yarn.
  • The direction of twill line is changed after the completion of repeat of regular twill weave.
  • Straight draft is used.
  • The horizontal stripe effect is produced on the surface of this fabric.
  • Uses: suits, coats and ornamented fabrics.
http://niterians.blogspot.com/2016/07/zig-zag-or-pointed-twill-weave.html



http://niterians.blogspot.com/2016/07/diamond-design-twill-weave.html

Previous
Next Post »
Thanks for your comment