Fabric Spreading Objectives and Requirements

Fabric Spreading Objectives and Requirements

Rabiul Islam

Department of Textile Engineering

5th Batch

National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)

engr.rabiul.islam.rubel@gmail.com

http://niterians.blogspot.com/

 

#FABRIC SPREADING:

 

Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers (plies) of specified length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. Fabric spreading is the preparatory process for cutting. During spreading the number of plies should not be more than three hundred in one lay but it depends on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the cutting knife. During fabric spreading a cut order plan or composition is to be maintained. That is-

1. The no. of plies of each color depends on order quality and thickness of fabrics.

2. Ply length depends on marker length.

3. Right or wrong side of fabrics.

For example: if the thickness of the fabric is higher than the number of plies mentioned above would not valid and in case of straight knife cutting instrument the maximum lay height should be 70% of its blade height.

#OBJECTIVES OF SPREADING:

1. To place the number of plies of fabric as to the exact length of the marker plan correctly aligned to length and width and without tension.
2. To cut garments in bulk and the saving of fabric through the use of multi-garment marker plans; and
3. The saving in cutting time per garment that results cutting many plies at the same time.

#PLY HEIGHT DETERMINATION:

As you have read previously, now let us take a brief look on some other factors that influence the lay height as well:

o        Thickness of the fabric: When the thickness of the fabric is, more than the number of plies will be less and vice versa.

o        Cutting knife length: Lay height will be 70% of the cutting knife height of straight knife and in case of round knife it should not be more than 40% of the blade diameter.

o        Volume of production: For bulk production, the number of plies is more and the lay height is more.

o        Nature of the fabric: In case of same number of plies, cotton fabric can be cut but synthetic fabric cannot be cut otherwise there is a possibility of fusing.

 

Fabric ply height

 

#REQUIREMENTS OF FABRIC SPREADING:

 

Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:

1.    Alignment of fabric plies: Every ply should comprise/include at least the length and the     width of the marker plan, but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements. The nature of textile materials varies in width. Inaccuracy in this alignment could mean that the plies do not cover the whole area of the marker plan and parts of some pattern pieces would be missing when cut.

Fabric Lay Alaignment

2.    Correct ply tension: The ply tension should be correct. If the tension is low, then there will be ridges in the plies and the tension is too high, then the fabric may shrink after cutting and sewing. The use of spreading machine gives uniform tension.

3. Elimination of fabric faults: Fabric faults e.g. holes, stains, etc. may be identified by fabric supplier and additional faults may be detected during examination of the fabric by the garment manufacturer prior to spreading.

4. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability: These two factors must be considered together during fabric spreading. They depend on fabric type, pattern shape, and the spreading equipment that is available. When the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is essential the fabric is spread in a way that maintains that direction. Sometimes the fabrics are required to be spread with all the plies face up, some with all the plies face down and some face to face. Symmetrical pattern pieces with all the same way up or face to face. If the pattern pieces are asymmetrical all plies up or down.

   

   Fabric Ply Direction

5. Elimination of static electricity: In spreading plies of fabric containing man-made fibers, friction may increase the charge of static electricity in the fabric. Friction may be reduced by changing the method of threading the fabric through guide bars of the spreading machine. Humidity in the atmosphere of the cutting room may also be increased, thus allowing the static electricity to discharge continuously through the atmosphere.

6. Avoidance of fusion of plies: Thermoplastic fiber fabrics may fuse together during cutting if the cutting knife becomes hot. We can prevent fabric from fusion by:

• Using anti-fusion paper;

• Using silicon lubricants on the knife;

• Reducing ply height; and

• Reducing the speed of the cutting.

7. Avoidance of distortion in spread: There should not be unnecessary friction between the bottom of the spread and the surface of the table. So a layer of hard polythene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread. 

8. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles: Identification marks are used into plies due to color or shade variation of fabric or other cases. For this separation, least valued colored paper is used into plies.

9. Fabric must be flat: The fabric laid on to the cutting table should be flat otherwise there will be ridges in it. 

10. Matching checks or strips: If the fabric is checked or striped then it must be laid to the marker plan and they should be matched by the help of needle.

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