Classification of twill Weave

Classification of  twill Weave

 

a)According to the direction of twill line :

1. S twill:  The twill line runs from top left to bottom right.
Example: 3/2 S twill

2. Z twill: The twill line runs from bottom left to top right.
Example: 3/2 Z twill
About 85% Twills are Z or Right Handed Twill.

b)According to the way of construction

1. Warp way twill: Warp float run in the weft direction.
Example: 3/2 warp way twill.
Since warp yarns are made of higher twist, so these fabrics are stronger then weft face twill fabrics.

2. Weft way twill: Weft float run in the weft direction.
Example:3/2 weft way twill
Since warp yarns are made of lower twist, so these fabrics are less stronger then warp face twill fabrics.

3. Double face twill : Prominence of warp and weft yarn on both side of the cloth is the same.
Example: 2/2 Z twill

c) According to the nature of twill line
1. Simple/Straight twill: Each warp end is raised or lowered under only one pick in the repeat.

Example:

Straight weft face twill

2/1 , 3/1, 4/1 Straight warp face twill.

2. Expanded twill: Each warp end is raised over or loweres under more than one adjacent pick in the repeat. If the warp and weft twill lines are of equal width, the fabric is double-faced.
Formula Number : 2/3, 3/2, 4/4 , 2/4

Example: 4/2  Z twill, 3/3  Z twill

3. Multiple twill: It contains at least two warp twill lines or two weft twill lines of different width in a repeat.
Formula Number:

Multiple Twill Formula Number

Example:

 WRITTEN BY

Md. Masudur Rahman

Department of Textile Engineering

4^th Batch

National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER) 

masudbdasia@gmail.com

Twill Weave – Introduction and Features

 

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